Tasting our way across Eastern Ontario’s cheese country has been great fun, but Montreal and Quebec beckon.



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Never met a cheese I didn't like . . . well, hardly ever
Tasting our way across Eastern Ontario’s cheese country has been great fun, but Montreal and Quebec beckon.
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Our timing was off but the visit last weekend to Les brebis sur le toit bleu (Sheep on the blue roof) was most enjoyable—and served to whet the appetite for a return later in the summer when cheese will be available.
Les brebis sur le toit bleu produces only cheese made from sheep’s milk. Sheep do not lactate all year round. They lamb in March but Richard Garner doesn’t take any milk from his flock of 30 ewes until mid-May. By October, the ewes begin to dry out. By November, lactation is done for another season, and the rams are brought into play. The resulting gestation term is five months. And, thus, the cycle of life and cheese starts all over again.
Richard made this season’s first cheese on May 14. After the obligatory aging of a minimum of 60 days, his cheese will first be available for purchase at the farm near Oxford Mills, Ontario, on July 18. By the end of July, it will be available at Byward Fruit Market in Ottawa, Jamie Kennedy’s Gilead Café & Bistro in Toronto, Gurth Pretty’s Cheese of Canada, and the farmer’s market in Kemptville a few kilometres from the farm.
The farm dates back to the 1870s. Cheese is made in a small make room at the back of the house which has a blue roof. The name of the farm and business is a take on the title of a 1920s novel by Jean Cocteau.
Richard and Sylvie Morel, his wife, purchased the farm 13 years ago and started making cheese one year later. He was a professional photographer in his earlier life. Sylvie, until her retirement last year, was director of exhibits of the fabulous Museum of Civilization in Ottawa.
In addition to Tomme de Gaston, a natural rind, aged, semi-hard cheese typical of fermier cheeses from the western Pyrénées that is a favorite at CheeseLover.ca, Richard and Sylvie produce:
They have no plans to grow the business. For them, small isn’t just beautiful. It’s perfect.
—Georgs Kolesnikovs
Georgs Kolesnikovs is Cheese-Head-in-Chief at CheeseLover.ca.
As we check out of Millisle Bed & Breakfast in Merrickville to head farther east in Ontario cheese country, we realize, to our consternation, that the lock of the trunk on our Ford Focus has jammed shut.
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St. Albert Cheese Co-Operative
Mrs. McGarrigle’s Fine Food Shop
—Georgs Kolesnikovs
Georgs Kolesnikovs is Cheese-Head-in-Chief at CheeseLover.ca.
We’re tasting our way through Eastern Ontario, heading for Montreal and the Formula 1 Grand Prix and then Warwick for Quebec’s huge cheese festival.
Lest you think we’re eating only cheese, take a gander at . . .
Related links in Merrickville, Ontario:
Mrs. McGarrigle’s Fine Food Shop.
—Georgs Kolesnikovs
Georgs Kolesnikovs is Cheese-Head-in-Chief at CheeseLover.ca.
Cheese education in Ontario is thriving, as evidenced by the array of tasting classes catering to those who wish to enhance their appreciation of cheese. But what about individuals looking to carve out a career in the cheese business who require a more thorough, professional education?
Here’s a roundup of courses available to mould a fresh batch of cheese professionals.
The University of Guelph has been offering some version of its cheesemaking course since 1893, though its present professor, Art Hill, began teaching his Cheesemaking Technology program with the Food Sciences department in 1986. The program—designed for artisan and commercial cheesemakers, cheese hobbyists, and government and sales personnel who work with cheesemakers—focuses on the science and technology of cheesemaking. Students attend lectures and apply the principles learned in a cheesemaking laboratory.
“The focus is on understanding the manufacturing principles of technological families of cheese, rather than becoming expert in the manufacture of particular cheese varieties,” says Professor Hill. The program is offered annually in the spring and runs for five days. The next course offering will run from April 27 to May 1, 2015. Those interested can visit the course website.
Artisan Cheese Marketing, a cheese education and public relations company founded by cheese industry expert Kathy Guidi, was the first business in Canada to recognize the demand for professional cheese appreciation classes. In response, the company developed the Cheese Education Guild in 2005, the first institution in Canada to offer a certificate-level cheese education course.
To earn a Cheese Education Guild certificate, students must complete three 24-hour appreciation courses. The courses aim to develop students’ tasting and sensing abilities while building cheese vocabulary and knowledge. Cheese Appreciation courses 1 and 2 each cost $550, while the final Cheese Appreciation 3 costs $620. Information on upcoming courses is listed on the company website, and can also be obtained by emailing Artisan Cheese Marketing.
George Brown College has also sensed a demand for professional cheese education classes, and so the school began offering a Professional Fromager Certificate in January 2010. The course was developed by Scott McKenzie, a graduate of the Cheese Education Guild, and is offered through the college’s Hospitality and Culinary Arts department. The program consists of six classes, each focusing on an element of cheese appreciation and knowledge. The program includes classes on tasting and criticism, affinage, and pairings. Individual classes range in cost from $231 to $321, with the total program tuition fees amounting to $1,556. For more information, contact the department at (416) 415-5000 ext. 2517 or via email.
Monforte Dairy is developing its own unique program that will bring the company into the ranks of professional cheese educators. Unlike other programs available in Ontario, Ruth Klahsen, Monforte’s owner and head cheesemaker, has decided to offer an apprenticeship program that focuses on the craft of artisan cheesemaking.
“The school is intended to preserve and grow the art of artisanal cheesemaking as opposed to industrial cheesemaking. Ontario was once the dairy capital of Canada and Monforte would like to see more artisanal cheese operations across the province again. It would be our hope that the new cheesemakers would then be able to start up their own dairies,” says Maureen Argon, Monforte’s communications specialist.
Monforte is hoping to attract apprentices who already hold a keen interest in cheesemaking, and who have some food production knowledge. The program is still in the development stage, with cheese consultant Neville McNaughton building a curriculum. Monforte is also looking into partnership possibilities with Ontario colleges. The program will run over a two-year period, from January to April. For more information, contact Monforte Dairy through the company website.
Though the popularity of cheese education courses is on the rise in Ontario, some experts believe a more traditional education is all a cheese enthusiast needs to learn the business. Julia Rogers, founder of Cheese Culture, which offers cheese classes and events to the public, says that while these courses can contribute to an individual’s overall cheese education, on their own they are not enough to prepare a person for retail or entrepreneurial work in cheese.
“If you want a career in cheese, you’ve got to work in cheese, which means washing dishes, washing floors, getting up early, stressing over margins and expiry dates and Christmas pre-orders, fielding every consumer question known to humanity, juggling CFIA (Canadian Food Inspection Agency) and Public Health inspectors, navigating the minefields of fickle urban trendsetter taste, meanwhile smiling . . . and doing it for minimum wage, 360 days a year,” Rogers says.
If, after paying their dues in such a gruelling setting, aspiring cheese experts still wish to pursue a career in the business, Rogers recommends seeking apprenticeships with industry professionals and foreign learning experiences to polish their skills.
—Phoebe Powell
A journalism graduate and budding turophile, Phoebe Powell last wrote for CheeseLover.ca about getting to know sheep’s-milk cheese.
Cheese makes news every day. That’s why we’ve started collecting links to the most interesting news reports of the week on a special page under the News tab at the top of the blog. Check it whenever you visit CheeseLover.ca.
Ontario’s Fifth Town Artisan Cheese and the meaning of sustainable food
Delicious moldy cheese first eaten over 1,000 years ago
Game-Changer: Why not leverage cheese’s appeal to draw vegetarian and health-minded customers?
Subway to start tessellating cheese
Finger Lakes Cheese Trail to hold open house
Look elsewhere for goaty gratification: Quebec’s Champagnole aged goat cheese has a refined finish
Major League Eating star eats 13 lb of Poutine in Toronto
U.S. cheese supplies at 26-year high
Fake cheese that’ll make vegans swoon
Kraft hopes to encourage adults to revert to a childhood favorite
Ag & non-Ag groups urge Wisconsin to veto raw milk bill
Poutine: Quebec’s accidental delicacy becomes global haute cuisine
Have cheese, will travel—a very long way
Cheese-powered fuel cells: The whey to greener electricity
Enjoy the ultimate entertainer: Boursin Cheese
Medieval Swiss town of Gruyères offers plenty to sample
Cheesesteak Pretzel makes official debut
How to give your grilled cheese a gourmet twist
First attempt at making mozzarella cheese at home
Caseus Helveticus—Swiss cheese to me and you—was first mentioned in recorded history by Pliny, the first century Roman historian. Doubtless, it was more like cottage cheese than what we’re familiar with in modern times. The type of Swiss cheese we eat today first appeared in the 15th century when the technique of using rennet to firm up cheese was introduced.
In the 17th century, the Amish religion was founded in Switzerland. By the 18th century, the first Amish arrived in Ontario, bringing with them the old ways—including making cheese.
And that‘s how, three centuries later, I’m enjoying a chunk of mild and creamy Swiss made by Millbank Cheese Factory, but there is a twist in the history.
Millbank Cheese and Cold Storage in the village of Millbank in Southwestern Ontario was founded in 1908 by Old Order Amish dairy farmers. Over the years, Millbank Cheese grew and grew. By the 1980s, it employed 35 full-time employees and sold $12 million worth of cheese and butter annually. Then started a revolving door of owners: First, Schneiders, then Ault Foods, and finally Parmalat—which shut down production in 1999 but kept the retail store open.
Millbank’s pioneering past flowered again when 90 traditional farm families purchased the factory from Parmalat in 2003 and again began to make cheese the Old Order Amish way. Today, Millbank manufactures goat, sheep and cow-milk products.
And so it came to pass that when I walked into The Art of Cheese in the Beaches area of Toronto, owner Bill Miller suggested I try Millbank’s organic, unpasteurized Swiss cheese.
“This Swiss is very creamy,” Bill said. “When warmed up, it has a slight tangy bite. The real difference, though, is in the after-taste. In mass-produced Swiss, you get a metallic taste—some would say tinny—from the chemical residue that comes from the use of additives to speed up the maturing process.” As Swiss is such a light-tasting cheese, there is nowhere for the additive residue to hide.
The cream content level of the Millbank Swiss is 33% milk fat, which is high, yet that’s what makes this a rich Swiss and an excellent snack.
Bill suggested I try it in scalloped potato as the cheese helps bring out other flavours without dominating. Alas, my chunk was long gone by supper time.
—Georgs Kolesnikovs
Georgs Kolesnikovs is Cheese-Head-in-Chief at CheeseLover.ca. He grew up eating Swiss, Havarti and Limburger, and a Latvian cheese called Janu siers.
Leslieville Cheese Market, with two locations in Toronto, is opening a third store in Flesherton, right on the main route to Georgian Bay cottage country.
“There is a bit of a food movement happening slowly in and around Flesherton,” says co-owner Michael Simpson. “It’s not an organized thing. People from Toronto who vacation in the area have brought with them a demand for excellence.”
Leslieville Cheese Market North will open June 1 at 10 Sydenham Street in Flesherton, right beside The Bakery, a popular stop on Highway 10.
“The Bakery in Flesherton is known far and wide,” says Michael. “We previously have had a great relationship with them. That makes us all the more happy that our market will be situated right beside them and their fantastic aromas.”
Leslieville Cheese Market North will be managed by co-owner Gary Ikona.
Leslieville Cheese Market East at 891 Queen Street East at Logan opened on June 16, 2006. Leslieville Cheese Market West at 541 Queen Street West at Augusta opened May 15, 2009.
In addition a huge selection of Canadian and imported cheeses, Leslieville carries chacuterie and other fine foods, and hosts the popular Night School for Cheese Fans with Julia Rogers and Beer School with Cheese Fans with Sam Corbeil.
[youtube=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=R1pF4Hok0do&hl=en_US&fs=1&rel=0]
Cheese makes news every day. That’s why we’ve started collecting links to the most interesting news reports of the day on a special page under the News tab at the top of the blog. Check it whenever you visit CheeseLover.ca.
Bobby Flay learns to make goat cheese
Cheese found to improve immune response of elderly
Local Food Plus launches Buy-To-Vote campaign
Cheese that’s a laughing matter
Sue Riedl on Le Tomme Haut-Richelieu
All about crottin de chèvre sur toast
Art, wine, cheese: Alternatives to stock investing
Cheese and the cycle of Jewish life
If cheese is milk’s leap towards immortality, what does that make processed cheese?
Kraft Foods showcases new products
Why Americans can’t be more French when it comes to cheese
Wisconsin remains No. 1 in U.S. cheese production
Petra Cooper left upper levels of publishing world for cheese
Seattle has its own cheese festival
Financing a business with cheese?
Monetary boost for Fifth Town Artisan Cheese
Cheese and heritage, a unique university diploma
Land O’Lakes closing cheese plant in California
Making garlic bread with three cheeses
American cheese grows up in Vermont
Sue Riedl on Bella Casara Buffalo Mozzarella
Benedictine spirituality and the making of cheese
A retailer’s rant about local and slow-food movements