{"id":1522,"date":"2010-10-16T14:25:21","date_gmt":"2010-10-16T18:25:21","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/cheeseloverca.wordpress.com\/?p=1522"},"modified":"2010-10-16T14:25:21","modified_gmt":"2010-10-16T18:25:21","slug":"in-praise-of-aged-comte-and-belle-bleu-lelizabeth","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/cheeselover.ca\/index.php\/2010\/10\/16\/in-praise-of-aged-comte-and-belle-bleu-lelizabeth\/","title":{"rendered":"In praise of aged Comt\u00e9 and belle Bleu l\u2019\u00c9lizabeth"},"content":{"rendered":"<figure id=\"attachment_1554\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1554\" style=\"width: 468px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/cheeselover.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/px_cl_comte_bleu_eliz2-1.jpg\" data-lightbox=\"gal[1522]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1554\" title=\"px_cl_comte_bleu_eliz\" src=\"https:\/\/cheeselover.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/px_cl_comte_bleu_eliz2-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"468\" height=\"395\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cheeselover.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/px_cl_comte_bleu_eliz2-1.jpg 700w, https:\/\/cheeselover.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/px_cl_comte_bleu_eliz2-1-300x254.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 468px) 100vw, 468px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1554\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Bliss: Comt\u00e9, Bleu l&#039;\u00c9lizabeth and a glass of Jim Jim.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p><strong>Sometimes, a board featuring only two cheeses is more than enough to satiate the senses. Last night was such a time at our house. Significant Other and I started with a divine 24-month Comt\u00e9 and stopped talking for the longest spell while moaning with delight about Le Bleu l\u2019\u00c9lizabeth.<\/strong><\/p>\n<p>The fully mature Comt\u00e9 was recommended to us by Geoff at <a href=\"http:\/\/www.chrischeesemongers.com\/\">Chris\u2019 Cheesemongers<\/a> in Toronto\u2019s St. Lawrence Market. He knows how much we enjoy an Alpine cheese such as<a href=\"http:\/\/www.artisanalcheese.com\/prodinfo.asp?number=10033\"> Beaufort d\u2019Alpage<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.comte.com\/\">Comt\u00e9<\/a> has been made in the <a href=\"http:\/\/www.google.ca\/images?q=Jura+Mountains&amp;oe=utf-8&amp;rls=org.mozilla:en-US:official&amp;client=firefox-a&amp;um=1&amp;ie=UTF-8&amp;source=univ&amp;ei=GOm5TO_aHsynnQeG5v3ADQ&amp;sa=X&amp;oi=image_result_group&amp;ct=title&amp;resnum=2&amp;ved=0CDAQsAQwAQ&amp;biw=1407&amp;bih=965\">Jura Mountains<\/a> in southeast France since the 12th century. It has the highest production figures of all the French AOC cheeses (51,000 tons in 2005, or about 1,275,000 wheels every year), a testament to its distinctive deliciousness.<\/p>\n<p>It\u2019s a raw cow-milk cheese with a natural brushed rind that is aged on average for eight months. The maturing period ranges from four months (the legal minimum ) to 12, 18 or even 24 months.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1547\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1547\" style=\"width: 468px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/cheeselover.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/px_cl_caves_juraflore_fort_des_rousses3-1.jpg\" data-lightbox=\"gal[1522]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1547\" title=\"px_cl_caves_juraflore_fort_des_rousses\" src=\"https:\/\/cheeselover.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/px_cl_caves_juraflore_fort_des_rousses3-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"468\" height=\"171\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cheeselover.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/px_cl_caves_juraflore_fort_des_rousses3-1.jpg 600w, https:\/\/cheeselover.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/px_cl_caves_juraflore_fort_des_rousses3-1-300x110.jpg 300w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 468px) 100vw, 468px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1547\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">Comt\u00e9: Spectacular caves to age a spectacular cheese.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>Being a French AOC (<a href=\"http:\/\/uk.franceguide.com\/what-to-do\/art-of-living\/AOC-and-AOP-two-quality-labels-for-French-cheeses.html?NodeID=119&amp;EditoID=213005\">Appellation d\u2019Origine Contr\u00f4l\u00e9e<\/a>) cheese, its production is tightly controlled:<\/p>\n<ul>\n<li>Delimited area of production: Doubs, Jura, Ain, elevation 1,500-4,500 ft.<\/li>\n<li>Milk must be produced by local cows of the Montb\u00e9liarde (95%) and Simmental (5%) breeds. There are about 112,000 Comt\u00e9 cows.<\/li>\n<li>Minimum of 2.5 acres of natural pasture for each animal.<\/li>\n<li>Cattle feed must be natural and free of fermented products and genetically modified organisms (GMO).<\/li>\n<li>Each <a href=\"http:\/\/fr.wikipedia.org\/wiki\/Fruiti%C3%A8re\">fruiti\u00e8re<\/a> must collect milk from dairy farms within a 20-kilometre diameter at maximum.<\/li>\n<li>Milk must be made into cheese within 24 hours of the earliest milking. Of course no modified milk ingredients (MMI) are allowed.<\/li>\n<li>Only natural ferments must be used to transform the milk into curds.<\/li>\n<li>Wheels must be aged on spruce boards.<\/li>\n<\/ul>\n<p>It takes as many as 530 litres of milk, which is about the daily production of 30 cows, all to make one wheel of Comt\u00e9 weighing 40 kilograms. Those numbers are staggering in a world where progress is measured in ever increasing productivity and, sadly, often decreasing quality.<\/p>\n<p>The texture is firm, the rind is grey-brown and pebbled, and the flavours burst forth in so many ways: Complex, nutty and caramelized with a lingering but not sharp flavor. The taste is variable depending on the age and the season of the milk. It&#8217;s typically described as salty, mild, and fruity. Some Comt\u00e9 has strong hazelnut flavours, other exhibits subtle hints of nutmeg.<\/p>\n<p>Comt\u00e9 goes well with either dry white or light red wines, but we\u2019re fans of bold fruit-forward wines, thus, we paired both cheeses with our last bottle of <a href=\"http:\/\/www.lcbo.com\/lcbo-ear\/lcbo\/product\/details.do?language=EN&amp;itemNumber=682005\">Jim Jim, a 2008 Australian shiraz<\/a>.<\/p>\n<p>Our cave-aged <a href=\"http:\/\/www.comte.com\/\">Comt\u00e9<\/a> was made by <a href=\"http:\/\/www.juraflore.com\/index.htm\">Fromageries Arnaud<\/a>. $8.99\/100g @ Chris&#8217; Cheesemongers<\/p>\n<p>I only expected SO to pick up the Comt\u00e9 at Chris\u2019s, but when she spotted Bleu l\u2019\u00c9lizabeth, she couldn\u2019t resist one of our favourite blues. It was the perfect match for the Comt\u00e9 and made for a memorable evening. Sides of duck pat\u00e9 with pistachio and rare roast-beef slices and a caraway rye only enhanced the experience.<\/p>\n<p>Writing in The Globe and Mail, Sue Riedl described the cheese as a \u201c<a href=\"http:\/\/www.theglobeandmail.com\/life\/food-and-wine\/a-mellow-blue-cheese-even-skeptics-will-love\/article1730998\/\">mellow blue even the blue-skeptic will love<\/a>.\u201d Bleu l\u2019\u00c9lizabeth is much more than that. As <a href=\"http:\/\/www.artisancheesemarketing.com\/about.htm\">Kathy Guidi<\/a> writes in <a href=\"http:\/\/www.amazon.ca\/Canadian-Cheese-Pocket-Guide-Kathy\/dp\/1552788946\">Canadian Cheese: A Pocket Guide<\/a>, \u201cThe flavour, initially sweet with balanced salt and a piquant finish, is impeccable.\u201d<\/p>\n<p>Indeed, Bleu l\u2019\u00c9lizabeth is a beauty, and unusually creamy and rich, with prominent Penicillium roqueforti veins that are blue, or green, according to the eye of the beholder. In 2009, it was declared the gold standard in <a href=\"http:\/\/itasth.qc.ca\/caseus\/\">Selection Caseus<\/a>, the chief cheese competition in Quebec.<\/p>\n<figure id=\"attachment_1528\" aria-describedby=\"caption-attachment-1528\" style=\"width: 468px\" class=\"wp-caption aligncenter\"><a href=\"https:\/\/cheeselover.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/px_cl_presbytere-1.jpg\" data-lightbox=\"gal[1522]\"><img loading=\"lazy\" decoding=\"async\" class=\"size-full wp-image-1528\" title=\"px_cl_presbytere\" src=\"https:\/\/cheeselover.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/px_cl_presbytere-1.jpg\" alt=\"\" width=\"468\" height=\"266\" srcset=\"https:\/\/cheeselover.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/px_cl_presbytere-1.jpg 800w, https:\/\/cheeselover.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/px_cl_presbytere-1-300x171.jpg 300w, https:\/\/cheeselover.ca\/wp-content\/uploads\/2010\/10\/px_cl_presbytere-1-768x438.jpg 768w\" sizes=\"auto, (max-width: 468px) 100vw, 468px\" \/><\/a><figcaption id=\"caption-attachment-1528\" class=\"wp-caption-text\">A former rectory houses Fromagerie du Presbyt\u00e8re in Sainte-\u00c9lizabeth de Warwick.<\/figcaption><\/figure>\n<p>The cheese is made in Sainte-Elizabeth de Warwick in central Quebec at <a href=\"http:\/\/www.fromageriedupresbytere.com\/\">Fromagerie du Presbyt\u00e8re<\/a> housed in the former rectory of the village Roman Catholic church. Across the street is La Ferme Louis d\u2019Or where Holstein and Jersey cows provide the organic raw milk for cheesemaking, after feasting on clover, bluegrass and other organic grains in season, dry hay in the winter.<\/p>\n<p>Brothers Louis and Dominique are the fourth generation of the Morin family to run the dairy farm. Louis started cheesemaking almost 20 years ago, under the Fromagerie du Presbyt\u00e8re label four years ago this month.<\/p>\n<p>Bleu l\u2019\u00c9lizabeth is a true farmstead cheese, generally aged two to three months. $6.99\/100g @ Chris&#8217;s Cheesemongers<\/p>\n<p><a href=\"http:\/\/www.fromageduquebec.qc.ca\/en\/cheeses\/?milk=cow&amp;cheese=Louis_D%E2%80%99Or\">Louis d\u2019Or<\/a>, the Alpine-style cheese that won Caseus 2010, is also made at Fromagerie du Presbyt\u00e8re as is buttery<a href=\"http:\/\/www.fromagesduquebec.qc.ca\/fr\/fromages\/?lait=vache&amp;fromage=Champayeur\"> Le Champayeur<\/a>, a soft-ripened cheese.<\/p>\n<p>The question is, after two gold medals in the Caseus competition, how will Jean Morin next knock our socks off?<\/p>\n<p style=\"text-align:right;\"><em>\u2014Georgs Kolesnikovs<\/em><\/p>\n<p><em>Georgs Kolesnikovs, Cheese-Head-In-Chief at CheeseLover.ca, plans to visit Fromagerie du Presbyt\u00e8re again in the next month or three to seek the answer.<\/em><\/p>\n","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"<p>Sometimes, a board featuring only two cheeses is more than enough to satiate the senses. Last night was such a time at our house. Significant Other and I started with a divine 24-month Comt\u00e9 and [&hellip;]<\/p>\n","protected":false},"author":2,"featured_media":0,"comment_status":"open","ping_status":"closed","sticky":false,"template":"","format":"standard","meta":{"footnotes":""},"categories":[28,36,101,168,227,258,279,381],"tags":[],"brand":[],"class_list":["post-1522","post","type-post","status-publish","format-standard","hentry","category-awards","category-beaufort-chalet-dalpage","category-cheese-plates","category-fromagerie-du-presbytere","category-kathy-guidi","category-le-bleu-delizabeth","category-louis-dor","category-sue-riedl"],"post_mailing_queue_ids":[],"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https:\/\/cheeselover.ca\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1522","targetHints":{"allow":["GET"]}}],"collection":[{"href":"https:\/\/cheeselover.ca\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts"}],"about":[{"href":"https:\/\/cheeselover.ca\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/types\/post"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cheeselover.ca\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/users\/2"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cheeselover.ca\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/comments?post=1522"}],"version-history":[{"count":0,"href":"https:\/\/cheeselover.ca\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/posts\/1522\/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https:\/\/cheeselover.ca\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/media?parent=1522"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cheeselover.ca\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/categories?post=1522"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cheeselover.ca\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/tags?post=1522"},{"taxonomy":"brand","embeddable":true,"href":"https:\/\/cheeselover.ca\/index.php\/wp-json\/wp\/v2\/brand?post=1522"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https:\/\/api.w.org\/{rel}","templated":true}]}}