Never met a cheese I didn't like . . . well, hardly ever
We’ve seen more than one Christmas cheese greetings, and received a few, too, but these five make our Best of 2013 list:
Canadian cheesemakers won 30 ribbons in the 2013 American Cheese Society Judging & Competition in Madison, Wisconsin, in early August, competing against 1,794 cheeses submitted by 257 producers in the Americas—the largest competition in the history of the ACS.
Twenty-three of the 30 ribbons were won by 10 Québec cheesemakers, four being first-place ribbons, two for Agropur Fine Cheese and one each for Fromagerie Fritz Kaiser, represented by Fromages CDA, and La Moutonnière.
Two Ontario producers, Mariposa Dairy, represented by Finica Food Specialties, and Quality Cheese, won first-place ribbons as well.
Best of Show was won by Cellars at Jasper Hill Farm in Vermont with the Winnimere, an extraordinary take on the French mountain classic Vachering Mont d’Or. Made with raw milk from the farm’s Ayrshire cows, Winnimere is wrapped in cambium cut from the spruce trees on the farm and washed in a beer from a neighbouring brewery. It’s available only January through June.
Here are the Canadian winners:
OPEN CATEGORY – FRESH UNRIPENED CHEESES – MADE FROM SHEEP’S MILK OR MIXED MILKS
1st Quality Cheese, Ontario
Buffalo Ricotta Bella Casara
3rd La Maison Alexis de Portneuf (Saputo), Québec
Chèvre des Neiges plain
BRIE – MADE FROM COW’S MILK
2nd Agropur Fine Cheese, Québec
Brie Normandie
CAMEMBERT – MADE FROM COW’S MILK
1st Agropur Fine Cheese, Québec
Camembert l’Extra
2nd Agropur Fine Cheese, Québec
Camembert Vaudreuil
TRIPLE CRÈME – SOFT RIPENED/CREAM ADDED – ALL MILKS
2nd Agropur Fine Cheese, Québec
Chevalier Triple Creme
3rd La Maison Alexis de Portneuf (Saputo), Québec
Saint-Honoré
OPEN CATEGORY – SOFT-RIPENED CHEESES – MADE FROM COW’S MILK
2nd Agropur Fine Cheese, Québec
Rondoux Double Crème
OPEN CATEGORY – SOFT-RIPENED CHEESES – MADE FROM GOAT’S MILK
3rd Upper Canada Cheese, Ontario
Nanny Noire
EMMENTAL-STYLE WITH EYE FORMATION (SWISS, BABY SWISS, BLOCKS, WHEELS) – MADE FROM COW’S MILK
1st Agropur Fine Cheese, Québec
Oka l’Artisan
3rd Fromagerie Abbaye Saint-Benoît-du-Lac (Fromages CDA), Québec
Le Frère Jacques
OPEN CATEGORY – AMERICAN MADE/INTERNATIONAL STYLE – MADE FROM GOAT’S MILK
3rd Fromagerie Bergeron, Québec
Patte Blanche
FRESH MOZZARELLA – 8 OZ. OR MORE (BALLS OR SHAPES) – ALL MILKS
2nd Quality Cheese, Ontario
Bella Casara Fior de Latte
3rd Quality Cheese, Ontario
Fresh Mozzarella Zerto
FETA – MADE FROM SHEEP’S MILK OR MIXED MILKS
2nd La Moutonniere, Québec
Feta
FAT FREE AND LOW FAT CHEESES
2nd Fromagerie Le Détour, Québec
La Dame du Lac
LIGHT/LITE AND REDUCED FAT CHEESES
1st Fromagerie Fritz Kaiser (Fromages CDA), Québec
L’Empereur Léger
FRESH UNRIPENED CHEESE WITH FLAVOR ADDED – ALL MILKS
3rd La Maison Alexis de Portneuf (Saputo), Québec
Chèvre des Neiges Fig and Orange
INTERNATIONAL-STYLE WITH FLAVOR ADDED – ALL MILKS
2nd Fromagerie Bergeron, Québec
Le Coureur des bois
HAVARTI WITH FLAVOR ADDED – ALL MILKS
2nd Agropur Fine Cheese, Québec
Havarti Jalapeno
REDUCED FAT CHEESE WITH FLAVOR ADDED – ALL MILKS
2nd Woolwich Dairy, Ontario
Woolwich Dairy Fresh Chèvre – Big Kick Herb & Garlic
SMOKED CHEDDARS – ALL MILKS
2nd COWS CREAMERY, Prince Edward Island
Applewood Smoked Cheddar
FRESH RINDLESS GOAT’S MILK CHEESE AGED 0 TO 30 DAYS (BLACK ASH COATING PERMITTED)
3rd Mariposa Dairy (Finica Food Specialties), Ontario
Celebrity International Goat Cheese Original
SHEEP’S MILK CHEESE AGED OVER 60 DAYS
1st Mariposa Dairy (Finica Food Specialties), Ontario
Tania
3rd Fromagerie Nouvelle France, Québec
Zacharie Cloutier
YOGURTS – PLAIN WITH NO ADDITIONAL INGREDIENTS –MADE FROM COW’S MILK
3rd Beurrerie du Patrimoine, Québec
Plain Yogourt
BUTTER WITH OR WITHOUT CULTURES – MADE FROM GOAT’S, SHEEP’S OR MIXED MILKS
1st La Moutonniere, Québec
Ewes Butter
OPEN CATEGORY – WASHED RIND CHEESES – MADE FROM COW’S MILK
2nd La Fromagerie 1860 DuVillage (Saputo), Québec
Vacherin
3rd La Maison Alexis de Portneuf (Saputo), Québec
Le Reflet de Portneuf
OPEN CATEGORY – WASHED RIND CHEESES – MADE FROM GOAT’S MILK
2nd Fromagerie Le Détour, Québec
Sentinelle
Congratulations to all Canadian winners! They are shown below in alphabetical order with a summary of their winnings which accounted for 30 ribbons.
Agropur Fine Cheese
First-place – 2
Second-place – 5
Beurrerie du Patrimoine
Third-place – 1
Cows Creamery
Second-place – 1
Mariposa Dairty (Finica Food Specialties)
First-place – 1
Third-place – 1
Fromagerie Abbaye Saint-Benoît-du-Lac (Fromages CDA)
Third-place – 1
Fromagerie Bergeron
Second-place – 1
Third-place – 1
Fromagerie Fritz Kaiser (Fromages CDA)
First-place – 1
Fromagerie Le Détour
Second-place – 2
Fromagerie Nouvelle France
Third-place – 1
La Fromagerie 1860 DuVillage (Saputo)
Second-place – 1
La Maison Alexis de Portneuf (Saputo)
Third-place – 4
La Moutonniere
First-place – 1
Second-place – 1
Quality Cheese
First-place – 1
Second-place – 1
Third-place – 1
Upper Canada Cheese
Third-place – 1
Woolwich Dairy
Second-place – 1
The 2014 American Cheese Society Judging & Competition will be held in Sacramento, California.
Jason Bangerter, executive chef, O&B Canteen and Luma restaurants in Toronto, won the coveted cheese grater trophy for his Niagara Gold Crunch at the 2012 Grate Canadian Grilled Cheese Cook-Off sponsored by Dairy Farmers of Canada.
The winning creation was reminiscent of a gourmet grilled ham and cheese, but the chef used shaved prosciutto and baby arugula as a filling between layers of that wonderful Niagara Gold, spread with a thyme, garlic and black pepper mayo and served with pickled grapes. Chef Bangerter wooed the judges’ sense of smell by completing the grilling by sautéing it in a little extra butter, thyme and garlic. Upper Canada’s cheesemaker was on hand to cheer him on.
The competing chefs hailed from four provinces of Canada: Ned Bell, executive chef, Four Seasons Hotel Vancouver, British Columbia; Liana Robberecht, executive chef, Calgary Petroleum Club, Calgary, Alberta; Jason Bangerter, executive chef, O&B Canteen & Luma, Toronto, Ontario; and Michael Howell, chef and owner, Tempestous Culinary, Nova Scotia.
Each chef prepared two different sandwiches to present to the judges. Bangerter’s other entry was a sweet grilled cheese, filled with strawberries, raspberry liqueur, and layered with basil and Canadian Mascarpone. Served with a lavender milk to drink.
The judges were Canadian food writers Sue Riedl, Rita DeMontis and Elizabeth Baird, and Kevin Durkee proprietor of CHEESEWERKS restaurant in Toronto.
Chef Howell defended his 2011 title with an Apulia Panini and a Crabby Dipper pictured below, made with Canadian Cream Cheese and smoked Canadian Gouda.
Chef Robberecht’s entries were The Cherry Bomb made with candied cherry tomatoes and rich Triple Cream Brie and thick sizzling bacon, and the Stampede Centennial with Alberta BBQ beef pulled short ribs complemented by Canadian Provolone and Blue cheese.
Chef Bell used local B.C. cheeses such as Island Brie and Courtenay Cheddar served with a homemade fruit chutney in his The Simple and he went from simple to sweet in his entry Ned Bell Pepper Sweet & Spicy with B.C. Pacific Pepper Spicy Verdelait and Cheddar Red Hot Pepper surrounding tomatoes in the centre.
For recipes and more click here.
—Rebecca Crosgrey is logistics boss of The Great Canadian Cheese Festival
[youtube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lgghEgyFDmY?rel=0&w=560&h=315]
Two new goat-milk cheeses—one barely out of the vat—took top honours in the goat-cheese competition at the Royal Agricultural Winter Fair this week.
Lindsay Bandaged Cheddar was named Grand Champion about a year after it was introduced by Mariposa Dairy of Lindsay, Ontario—and began winning awards, including Best of Show, Runner-up, at the American Cheese Society.
Camelot, a new goat-milk cheese introduced by Upper Canada Cheese of Jordan, Ontario, only a few months ago, was named Reserve Champion and its other new cheese, Nanny Noire, placed second in mold-ripened class.
Mariposa Dairy dominated the goat-milk cheese competition, winning or placing in five categories.
Upper Canada’s goat cheeses are made only with milk from a rare herd of Lamancha goats pastured at Gord and Melanie Wood’s Idyllwood Farms near Keene, Ontario, and cared for by the entire Wood family. Says Lauren Petryna, head cheesemaker:
“This fresh, pure milk is then transformed into Camelot and Nanny Noire. Camelot ages for two months in our cellars, while camembert-style Nanny is rolled in ash, allowed to develop its bloomy rind and is ready to be enjoyed within weeks.”
Here are the top three in the mixed-milk class of the annual competition at the Royal:
All New Innovations Mixed Milk Cheese
Here are the top three cheeses in each category of the goat-milk competition:
Firm Cheddar, Mozzarella, Caprano
Interior Ripened Gouda, Friulano, Manchego, Havarti, Feta
Surface Ripened Oka-style, St. Paulin, Tilsit, Mimstes
Mold Ripened Brie, Camembert, tre Fratello, L’Extra Goat, La Brie,Triple Cream Brie
Unflavoured Fresh Cheese Cream Cheese, Ghage, Quark, Ricotta
Flavoured Fresh Cheese
Blue Veined Cheese
Flavoured Cheese Smoked, Jalepeno
Judges: Thierry Martin and Jean‐Jacques Turgeon
Sponsors: Gay Lea Foods Co-operative, Dairy Farmers of Ontario, Canadian Cheese Society, Cargill, Central Ontario Cheese Makers, Parmalat, Jersey Canada, Continental Ingredients Canada, Ecolab, Empire Cheese.
The 89th annual Royal Agricultural Winter Fair runs until Sunday at Exhibition Place, Toronto.
To be posted tomorrow: results in the cheddar competition at the Royal.
Canadian cheesemakers did remarkably well at the 2011 American Cheese Society Conference and Competition in Montreal this week, winning close to one-quarter of ribbons up for grabs. Best of all, Mariposa Dairy with Lindsay Bandaged Goat Cheddar and Fromagerie du Presbytère with Louis d’Or won Best of Show honors.
BEST OF SHOW
Rogue Creamery, OR
Rogue River Blue
BEST OF SHOW 2nd PLACE (TIE)
Mariposa Dairy, ON
Lindsay Bandaged Goat Cheddar
Carr Valley Cheese, WI
Cave Aged Marisa
BEST OF SHOW 3rd PLACE
Fromagerie Du Presbytère, QC
Louis d’Or
HERE ARE ALL 69 CANADIAN RECIPIENTS OF RIBBONS BY CATEGORY
B. SOFT RIPENED CHEESES
White surface mold ripened cheeses – Brie, Camembert, Coulommiers, etc.
BA: Open Category made from cow’s milk
1st Agropur Fine Cheese, QC
Rondoux Double Crème
2nd Domaine Feodal, QC
Inspire
3rd Domaine Feodal, QC
Cendre des Priés
BB: Brie made from cow’s milk
1st Brazos Valley Cheese, TX
Eden
2nd Brazos Valley Cheese, TX
Brie
3rd La Maison Alexis de Portneuf, QC
Brie de Portneuf Double Crème
BC: Camembert made from cow’s milk
1st No Award Given
2nd Old Europe Cheese, Inc., MI
Camembert Fermier
3rd Alemar Cheese Company, MN
Bent River Camembert – Style Cheese
3rd Upper Canada Cheese, ON
Comfort Cream
BG: Open Category made from goat’s milk
1st Fromagerie Le Détour, QC
Grey Owl
2nd Damafro, QC
La Bûchette
3rd Haystack Mountain Goat Dairy, CO
Haystack Mountain Goat Dairy Camembert
BS: Open Category made from sheep’s or mixed milks
1st Fromagerie Fritz Kaiser, QC
Le Soeur Angele
2nd Les Bergeries du Fjord, QC
Le Blanche du Fjord
2nd Old Chatham Sheepherding Company, NY
Hudson Valley Camembert Square
3rd Marin French Cheese Co, CA
Melange Brie
BF: Flavor Added – spices, herbs, seasoning, fruits, etc.
1st Marin French Cheese Co, CA
Peppercorn Brie – Garlic
2nd Agropur Fine Cheese, QC
Chevalier Fines Herbs
3rd Old Europe Cheese, Inc., MI
Brie with Herbs
BT: Triple Crème – soft ripened / cream added – all milks
1st Agropur Fine Cheese, QC
Rondoux Triple Crème
2nd Old Europe Cheese, Inc., MI
Brie Triple Créme
3rd Agropur Fine Cheese, QC
Chevalier Triple Crème
CC: Original Recipe / Open Category made from cow’s milk
1st Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company, CA
Point Reyes Toma
2nd Cowgirl Creamery, CA
Mt. Tam
3rd Les Fromages de l’île d’Orléans, QC
Le Paillasson de l’isle d’Orléans
D. AMERICAN MADE / INTERNATIONAL STYLE
Cheeses modeled after or based on recipes for established European or other international types or styles – Beaufort, Abondance, Gruyère, Juustoleipa, Caerphilly, English Territorials, Leyden, Butterkäse, Monastery styles, etc.
DD: Dutch style – all milks (Gouda, Edam etc.)
1st Glengarry Fine Cheese, ON
Lankaaster Aged
2nd Oakdale Cheese & Specialties, CA
Gouda
3rd Edelweiss Creamery, WI
Gouda Cellar Aged Grass Based
3rd Old Europe Cheese, Inc., MI
Edam Ball
DC: Open Category made from cow’s milk
1st Eagle Mountain Farmhouse Cheese Co., TX
Birdville Reserve
2nd Monforte Dairy, ON
Abondance
3rd Hahn’s End, ME
Petit Poulet
3rd Sartori Company, WI
Sartori Reserve BellaVitano Gold
DE: Emmental style made from cow’s milk with eye formation (Swiss, Baby Swiss, Blocks, Wheels etc.)
1st No Award Given
2nd Agropur Fine Cheese, QC
OKA L’Artisan
3rd Farmers Cooperative Dairy, NL
Farmers Swiss
DG: Open Category made from goat’s milk
1st Fromagerie Fritz Kaiser, QC
Tomme Haut Richelieu
2nd Baetje Farms LLC., MO
Sainte Genevieve
2nd Consider Bardwell Farm, VT
Manchester
3rd Haystack Mountain Goat Dairy, CO
Haystack Mountain Goat Dairy Queso De Mano
DS: Open Category made from sheep’s milk or mixed milks
1st Carr Valley Cheese Co, Inc., WI
Caso Bolo Mellage
2nd Fifth Town Artisan Cheese, ON
Fellowship
2nd Tumalo Farms, OR
Rimrocker
3rd Sartori Company, WI
Sartori Limited Edition Pastorale Blend
E. CHEDDARS
All Cheddars – all milks
EA: Aged Cheddar, all milks (aged between 12 and 24 months)
1st Milton Creamery LLC, IA
Prairie Breeze
2nd Fifth Town Artisan Cheese, ON
Premium Goat Cheddar, 12 to 24 months
3rd Kraft Foods, WI
Aged Extra Sharp Cheddar
EG: Cheddar from goat’s milk, aged less than 12 months
1st Central Coast Creamery, CA
Goat Cheddar
2nd Meyenberg Goat Milk Products, CA
Meyenberg Valley Goat Cheddar
3rd Fifth Town Artisan Cheese, ON
Premium Goat Cheddar, <12 months
3rd Mt. Sterling Co-Op Creamery, WI
Sterling Reserve / Raw Goat Milk Cave Aged Cheddar
EX: Mature Cheddar aged between 25 and 48 months
1st Agropur Fine Cheese, QC
Agropur Grand Cheddar aged 3 years
2nd Beecher’s Handmade Cheese, WA
Four Year Flagship
3rd Cabot Creamery Cooperative, VT
Cabot Vintage Choice Cheddar
3rd Tillamook County Creamery Association, OR
Tillamook Vintage White Extra Sharp Cheddar
EE: Mature Cheddar aged longer than 48 months
1st Agropur Fine Cheese, QC
Agropur Grand Cheddar aged 5 years
2nd DCI Cheese Company, WI
Black Diamond 5 Year Cheddar
3rd Fromagerie Perron, QC
Doyen
EW: Cheddar wrapped in cloth, linen, aged up to 12 months
1st Cows Creamery, PEI
Avonlea Clothbound Cheddar Aged Up To 12 Months
2nd Bleu Mont Dairy, WI
Bandaged Cheddar – Wrapped and Aged up to 12 Months
3rd Avalanche Cheese Co., CO
Hand Bandaged Goat Cheddar
3rd Brazos Valley Cheese, TX
Cheddar
EB: Cheddar wrapped in cloth, linen, aged over 12 months
1st Mariposa Dairy, ON
Lindsay Bandaged Goat Cheddar
2nd Bleu Mont Dairy, WI
Bandaged Cheddar – Wrapped and Aged Over 12 Months
3rd Beecher’s Handmade Cheese, WA
Flagship Reserve
F. BLUE MOLD CHEESES
All cheeses ripened with Roqueforti or Glaucum Penicillium (Excluded: Colorless Mycelia)
FK: Blue-veined made from cow’s milk with a rind or external coating
1st Rogue Creamery, OR
Rogue River Blue
2nd Spring Day Creamery, ME
Spring Day Blues
3rd Glengarry Fine Cheese, ON
Celtic Blue
FM: Blue-veined made from sheep’s or mixed milk with a rind or external coating
1st La Maison d’affinage Maurice Dufour, QC
Le Bleu de Brebis de Charlevoix
2nd La Moutonniere, QC
Bleu La Moutonnière
3rd Valley Shepherd Creamery, NJ
Crema De Blue
H. ITALIAN TYPE CHEESES
Excluded: Mascarpone and Ricotta
HP: Pasta Filata types – Provolone, Caciocavallo – all milks
1st Saputo Dairy Products, QC
Provolone
2nd Sorrento Lactalis, ID
Whole Milk Low Moisture Pasta Filata
3rd BelGioioso Cheese Inc., WI
Sharp Provolone Mandarino
HY: Fresh Mozzarella – 8 oz. or more (Balls or Shapes) – all milks
1st BelGioioso Cheese Inc., WI
Fresh Mozzarella Thermoform
2nd Calabro Cheese, CT
Fior Di Latte
2nd Point Reyes Farmstead Cheese Company, CA
Fresh Mozzarella
3rd International Cheese, ON
Santa Lucia Buffalo Mozzarella
I. FETA CHEESES
IC: Feta made from cow’s milk
1st No Award Given
2nd Karoun Dairies Inc., CA
Basket Feta
3rd Parmalat Canada, ON
Black Diamond Feta
IG: Feta made from goat’s milk
1st Karoun Dairies Inc., CA
Basket Goat Feta
2nd Shepherds Dairy Products, UT
Fine Feta-Plain
3rd Goat’s Pride Dairy at McLennan Creek, BC
Feta
3rd Vermont Butter & Cheese Creamery, VT
Vermont Feta
3rd Willow Moon Farm, VT
Feta
IS: Feta made from sheep’s milk or mixed milks
1st Hidden Springs Creamery, WI
Farmstead Feta
2nd La Moutonniere, QC
Feta
3rd Meadowood Farms, NY
Meadowood Farms Sheep’s Milk Feta
IF: Flavor added – spices, herbs, seasoning, fruits – all milks
1st Klondike Cheese Co., WI
Tomato & Basil Feta
2nd Neighborly Farms of Vermont, VT
Organic Pepper Feta
3rd Goat’s Pride Dairy at McLennan Creek, BC
Cranberry Caprabella
3rd La Moutonniere, QC
Feta with Herbs
J. LOW FAT / LOW SALT CHEESES
JL: Fat Free and Low Fat cheeses
1st No Award Given
2nd Fromagerie Le Détour, QC
La Dame du Lac
3rd Fromagerie Bergeron, QC
6% Pourcent
JR: Light/Lite and Reduced Fat cheeses
1st Fromagerie Fritz Kaiser, QC
Empereur Light
2nd Cabot Creamery Cooperative, VT
Cabot 50% Reduced Fat Cheddar
3rd Tillamook County Creamery Association, OR
Tillamook Reduced Fat Monterey Jack
K. FLAVORED CHEESES
Entries are limited to cheeses not included in categories with “Flavor Added” subcategories
KC: Cheeses flavored with all peppers (chipotle, jalapeno, chili, etc.) – all milks
1st No Award Given
2nd Damafro, QC
Les Bouchées Saveur Mexicaine
3rd Brunkow Cheese of Wisconsin, WI
Brun-uusto with Jalapeno
KP: Cheeses flavored with crushed or whole peppercorns or savory spices – all milks
1st Sartori Company, WI
Sartori Reserve Black Pepper BellaVitano
2nd Fromagerie Bergeron, QC
Coureur des Bois
3rd Formaggio Italian Cheese Specialties, LLC, NY
Prosciutto Roll
KH: Flavor Added Havarti – spices, herbs, seasonings, fruits – all milks
1st No Award Given
2nd Klondike Cheese Co., WI
Dill Havarti
3rd Agropur Fine Cheese, QC
Havarti Jalapeno
3rd Edelweiss Creamery, WI
Onion Havarti
L. SMOKED CHEESES
LD: Smoked Cheddars
1st Parmalat Canada, ON
Balderson Double Smoked Cheddar
2nd Gold Creek Farms, UT
Smoked Cheddar
3rd Beecher’s Handmade Cheese, WA
Smoked Flagship
M. FARMSTEAD CHEESES
Limited to cheeses and fermented milk products made with milk from herds on the farm where the cheeses are produced
MA: Open Category for all milks – Soft (Aged up to 60 days – over 50% moisture)
1st Doe Run Dairy, PA
Hummingbird
2nd Fromagerie Au Gré Des Champs, QC
Le Pont-Blanc
3rd Crave Brothers Farmstead Cheese, LLC, WI
Petit Frere Reserve
ME: Open Category cow’s milk cheeses – Hard (Aged over 60 days – Less than 39% moisture)
1st Fromagerie Du Presbytère, QC
Louis d’Or
2nd Farms For City Kids Foundation, VT
Tarentaise
3rd Shatto Milk Company, MO
Gouda
MG: Open Category Goat’s Milk Cheeses aged over 60 days
1st Tumalo Farms, OR
Classico
2nd Chèvrerie Fruit d’une Passion, QC
Tomme des Joyeux Fromagers
2nd Yellow Springs Farm LLC, PA
Fieldstone
3rd Capriole, IN
Mont St. Francis
MF: Open Category for all Cheeses with Flavorings Added – all milks
1st Ruggles Hill Creamery, MA
Lea’s Great Meadow
2nd Valley Shepherd Creamery, NJ
Pepato Shepherd
3rd Coach Farm, NY
Coach Farm Fresh Goat Cheese Log with Dill
3rd Fromagerie La Station, QC
Raclette de Compton au Poivre
N. FRESH GOAT’S MILK CHEESES
NO: Fresh Goat Rindless (black ash coating permitted, extruded or in containers, cups, tubs, cryovac)
1st Laura Chenel’s Chevre, CA
Laura Chenel’s
2nd Montchevre-Betin, INC., WI
Crumbled Goat Cheese
3rd Mariposa Dairy, ON
Celebrity International Goat Cheese Original
3rd Woolwich Dairy, ON
Woolwich Dairy Chevrai Original
NP: Flavor Added – Peppers / Spice
1st Baetje Farms LLC., MO
Coeur de la Crème Three Pepper
2nd Mariposa Dairy, ON
Celebrity International Chevre Pesto
3rd Baetje Farms LLC., MO
Coeur de la Crème Garlic and Chives
O. FRESH SHEEP’S MILK CHEESES
Open to all shapes and styles of rindless, unaged, fresh sheep’s milk cheeses
OO: Open Category
1st Les Fromages du Verger, QC
Le Louché
2nd La Moutonniere, QC
Cabanon
3rd Shepherd’s Way Farms, MN
Shepherd’s Hope Original
P. MARINATED CHEESES
Entries include cheeses marinated in oil, vinegar, wine, etc.
PG: Open Category made from goat’s milk marinated in liquids and ingredients
1st Laura Chenel’s Chevre, CA
Laura Chenel’s Cabecou
2nd Happy Days Dairies, BC
Goat Cheese Balls in Herb and Oil 100g
3rd Carr Valley Cheese Co, Inc., WI
Sweet Vanilla Cardona
Q. CULTURED MILK PRODUCTS
Limited to Yogurt, Crème Fraiche, Kefir, Labne, etc.
QG: Cultured products made from goat’s milk
1st No Award Given
2nd Redwood Hill Farm & Creamery, Inc., CA
Traditional Plain Kefir
3rd Happy Days Dairies, BC
Goat Milk Kefir 500ML
QY: Yogurts, Plain – made from cow’s milk with NO additional ingredients
1st No Award Given
2nd Redwood Hill Farm & Creamery, Inc., CA
Lactose Free Lowfat Plain Yogurt
3rd Beurrerie du Patrimoine, QC
Plain Cow Yogurt
QD: Yogurts, Plain – made from goat’s milk with NO additional ingredients
1st Sierra Nevada Cheese, CA
Capretta Goat Yogurt Rich & Creamy, Plain
2nd Redwood Hill Farm & Creamery, Inc., CA
Plain Yogurt
3rd Beurrerie du Patrimoine, QC
Plain Goat Yogurt
3rd Coach Farm, NY
Coach Farm Goat Milk Yogurt, Plain
QE: Yogurts, Plain – made from sheep’s milk with NO additional ingredients
1st Best Baa Dairy, ON
Sheepmilk Yogourt
2nd La Moutonniere, QC
Royogourt
3rd Appleton Creamery, ME
Yogurt
3rd Valley Shepherd Creamery, NJ
Ewegurt
R. BUTTERS
Whey Butter, Salted Butter, Sweet Butter, Cultured Butter, etc.
RC: Salted Butter made from cow’s milk with or without cultures
1st Fromagerie L’Ancêtre, QC
L’Ancêtre Organic Salted Butter
2nd Parmalat Canada, ON
Lactantia Salted Butter
3rd Vermont Butter & Cheese Creamery, VT
Vermont Cultured Butter – lightly salted
RO: Unsalted Butter made from cow’s milk with or without cultures
1st No Award Given
2nd CROPP Cooperative/ Organic Valley, WI
Organic European Style Cultured Butter
2nd Parmalat Canada, ON
Lactantia Unsalted Butter
3rd Cabot Creamery Cooperative, MA
Cabot Unsalted Butter
S. CHEESE SPREADS
Spreads produced by grinding and mixing, without the aid of heat and/or emulsifying salts, one or more natural cheeses
SA: Open Category made from all milks – Spreads with flavors using a base with moisture higher than 44%
1st Kraft Foods, NY
Garden Vegetable Spread
2nd Kraft Foods, NY
Spinach Artichoke Spread
3rd Happy Days Dairies, BC
Probiotic Goat Cheese Spread 280G
T. AGED SHEEP’S MILK CHEESES
Caciotta, Romano, Manchego, Table Cheeses, etc.
TO: Open Category
1st Carr Valley Cheese Co, Inc., WI
Cave Aged Marisa
2nd Fromagerie Nouvelle France, QC
Zacharie Cloutier
2nd Hidden Springs Creamery, WI
Ocooch Reserve
3rd Lark’s Meadow Farms, ID
Dulcinea Extra Reserve
U. AGED GOAT’S MILK CHEESES
Taupinière, Rinded Log and Pyramid Types, etc.
UG: Open Category
1st LaClare Farms Specialties LLC, WI
Evalon
2nd Chèvrerie du Buckland, QC
Tomme du Maréchal
3rd Appleton Creamery, ME
Chevre Wrapped in Brandied Grape Leaf
V. WASHED RIND CHEESES
Cheeses with a rind or crust washed in salted brine, whey, beer, wine, other alcohol, or grape lees that exhibit an obvious, smeared or sticky rind and/or crust – Limburger, Pont l’Evêque, Chimay, Raclette, Swiss Appenzeller or Vignerons-style, etc.
VC: Open Category made from cow’s milk
1st La fromagerie 1860 DuVillage, QC
La Tentation de Laurier
2nd Agropur Fine Cheese, QC
Champfleury
3rd Fifth Town Artisan Cheese, ON
Rose Haus
3rd Upper Canada Cheese, ON
Niagara Gold
VG: Open Category made from goat’s milk
1st Baetje Farms LLC., MO
Fleur de la Vallee
2nd Carr Valley Cheese Co, Inc., WI
River Bend Goat
3rd Fifth Town Artisan Cheese, ON
Cape Vessey
VS: Open Category made from sheep’s milk or mixed milks
1st La Maison d’affinage Maurice Dufour, QC
La Tomme d’Elles
2nd Best Baa Dairy, ON
Mouton Rouge
2nd Hidden Springs Creamery, WI
Ocooch
3rd Hidden Springs Creamery, WI
Meadow Melody
Congratulations to all Canadian winners! They are shown below in alphabetical order with a summary of their winnings which accounted for 22.5 percent of ribbons awarded.
Agropur Fine Cheese
First-place ribbons – 4
Second-place ribbons – 3
Third-place ribbons – 2
Best Baa Dairy
First-place ribbons – 1
Second-place ribbons – 1
Beurrerie du Patrimoine
Third-place ribbons – 2
Chèvrerie du Buckland
Second-place ribbons – 1
Chèvrerie Fruit d’une Passion
Second-place ribbons – 1
Cows Creamery
First-place ribbons – 1
Damafro
Second-place ribbons – 2
Domaine Feodal
Second-place ribbons – 1
Third-place ribbons – 1
Farmers Cooperative Dairy
Third-place ribbons – 1
Fifth Town Artisan Cheese
Second-place ribbons – 2
Third-place ribbons – 3
Fromagerie Au Gré Des Champs
Second-place ribbons – 1
Fromagerie Bergeron
Second-place ribbons – 1
Third-place ribbons – 1
Fromagerie Du Presbytère
Best of Show – 3rd place
First-place ribbons – 1
Fromagerie Fritz Kaiser
First-place ribbons – 3
Fromagerie L’Ancêtre
First-place ribbons – 1
Fromagerie La Station
Third-place ribbons – 1
Fromagerie Le Détour
First-place ribbons – 1
Second-place ribbons – 1
Fromagerie Nouvelle France
Second-place ribbons – 1
Fromagerie Perron
Third-place ribbons – 1
Glengarry Fine Cheese
First-place ribbons – 1
Third-place ribbons – 1
Goat’s Pride Dairy at McLennan Creek
Third-place ribbons – 2
Happy Days Dairies
Second-place ribbons – 1
Third-place ribbons – 2
International Cheese
Third-place ribbons – 1
La fromagerie 1860 DuVillage
First-place ribbons – 1
La Maison Alexis de Portneuf
Third-place ribbons – 1
La Maison d’affinage Maurice Dufour
First-place ribbons – 2
La Moutonniere
Second-place ribbons – 4
Third-place ribbons – 1
Les Bergeries du Fjord
Second-place ribbons – 1
Les Fromages de l’île d’Orléans
Third-place ribbons – 1
Les Fromages du Verger
First-place ribbons – 1
Mariposa Dairy
Best of Show – 2rd place
First-place ribbons – 1
Second-place ribbons – 1
Third-place ribbons – 1
Monforte Dairy
Second-place ribbons – 1
Parmalat Canada
First-place ribbons – 1
Second-place ribbons – 2
Third-place ribbons – 1
Rogue Creamery
Best of Show
Saputo Dairy Products
First-place ribbons – 1
Upper Canada Cheese
Third-place ribbons – 2
Woolwich Dairy
Third-place ribbons – 1
For additional photos from ACS 2011 in Montreal, click here.
Forget about Jersey. It’s really all about Guernsey, and these Guernsey Girls are taking it from farm to table.
On the fair-weather shores of Lake Ontario, there lives a Guernsey herd of cows. These girls delight in their surroundings—basking in the lakefront sun, fresh air and fertile soil of land protected by Ontario’s Greenbelt at St. Anns, nestled in the bountiful Twenty Valley. Their blissful disposition on the family owned Comfort Farm assists in producing celebrated, uniquely golden-shaded, flavourful milk with distinct, local characteristics: ideal for premium cheesemaking.
It must be true, happy cows make superior milk.
And that makes Upper Canada Cheese Company’s founding partner Wayne Philbrick very happy as well. His creamery has committed since 2005 to using the exceptional Guernsey milk from this herd of about one hundred, one of only a half-dozen Guernsey herds in Canada, relying on their rich milk to create his select, artisanal cheeses: Comfort Cream and Niagara Gold.
After growing up in the Niagara Peninsula on a family-run fruit farm, Philbrick experimented with tandem passions for wine- and cheese-making, eventually getting hooked on the craft cheeses of Quebec during trips to the region. In developing the “first generation” of his two top-sellers, he chose Guernsey milk for the truly special features it afforded: enriched health benefits, quality, colour and, of course, creamy taste.
The breed originally hails from the island of Guernsey in the English Channel, but its adaptable temperament and unparalleled characteristics make it a clear winner for boundless gourmet-cheese production. Guernsey milk contains 12% more protein, 30% more cream, 33% more vitamin D, 25% more vitamin A and 15% more calcium than the average Holstein milk. Along with its uncommonly high yield of beta carotene, a great source of vitamin A which has been recently touted to help reduce the risk of certain cancers, the milk also has 5% butterfat and a notable 3.7 % protein content.
Working closely with the Dairy Farmers of Ontario, Upper Canada Cheese has a rare arrangement with the DFO to deliver their Guernsey milk first in the morning before the truck picks up any other milk; allowing only the purest, freshest ingredients available to merge with the talents of their cheesemakers. The creamery also retains a license and the exclusive rights to create products using this particular local herd. Building these relationships required the ongoing persistence, perseverance and patience of Philbrick to ensure their specialty cheeses would always uphold an extraordinary and unique profile.
Now, in the first new Niagara creamery in generations, Upper Canada Cheese Company handcrafts and ages premium artisanal cheeses on-site at their Jordan Station location which also houses a cheese boutique that caters to the “culinary enthusiast.” Together with selected gourmet products, the epicurean store integrates Upper Canada’s make room and cellaring facility into a traditional train station building design; suggesting a historic return to the time-honored craft of cheesemaking itself.
“Each day, fresh, pure Guernsey cow milk is transformed into cheeses of uncommon taste and texture, revealing a subtle range of flavours influenced by the seasons, forage and feed,” Philbrick says. “Then, our cheeses are ideally aged in our own cellars until they’re ready for you. This is the whole food, farm to table idea; a minimum of food processing intervention to produce the purest cheeses possible.”
So, while this Guernsey herd might not “gym, tan and laundry” exactly like their counterparts on the shores of Jersey, these girls are thankfully proving to be a lot more tasteful.
TASTING NOTES
Comfort Cream – A camembert-style soft, white bloomy rind cheese with a silky, creamy, golden interior. Rich flavours of fresh truffles prevail with an intense, buttery palate and a long, tangy finish. This delicate and luscious artisanal cheese is hand-salted, hand-turned and hand-wrapped. Comfort Cream is stored in temperature and humidity-controlled cellars for at least four weeks before sale, with an additional few weeks of aging seeing the cheese ripen and mature in flavour, texture and colour.
Niagara Gold – An Oka-style, semi-soft, washed rind cheese fashioned after recipes developed by the Trappist monks of the Loire Valley. This is a cheese with nutty, earthy overtones and mellow, buttery flavours. A luscious cheese that is delicately mild and sweet when young and gains pungency and piquant qualities with age. The rind may be eaten or trimmed depending on your taste. It is sold after five months of careful aging in cellars and, under good conditions, it ages well for months and continues to develop unique flavours over time.
Also available:
Guernsey Girl Grilling Cheese, Guernsey Curds and Guernsey Gold Ricotta Cheese
If you can’t drop by, check out the Where To Buy page, or order by phone or email.
Wayne Philbrick, Founding Partner, Vivian Szebeny, Managing Partner
4159 Jordan Road, Jordan Station, ON L0R 1S0
Telephone 905.562.9730
Upper Canada Cheese Company will be a featured cheesemaker at The Great Canadian Cheese Festival taking place June 4-5 at Crystal Palace in Picton, in the heart of Prince Edward County, Ontario’s hot new wine region and fastest-growing culinary destination.
—Christine Darragh
Based in the Garden City of St. Catharines, Ontario, freelance writer Christine Darragh specializes in food and wine and other attractions of the Niagara Peninsula.
When I think of cheese pairings, my mind immediately goes to wine: the two are a classic combination. Apparently, mine is not the only brain that works this way. At a beer and cheese tasting held at Black Creek Pioneer Village, one attendee admitted, “I never would have thought to pair beer with cheese”. Though it may be a less-obvious pairing, under the expert guidance of Julia Rogers, I learned cheese and beer can complement one another beautifully.
“Cheese and wine is such a known pairing, it has become a single word, cheeseandwine,” Julia said. “But I am more nervous when pairing cheese with wine. Cheese and beer work together every time.”
Julia explained that cheese and beer make sense together because they share a common origin: beer is made from grain (usually barley), and grain is one of the main foods consumed by dairy animals. This common source can be detected when tasting both cheeses and beers.
But being in a historical replica village, we, the tasters, had to go through a lesson on the history of beer in Canada before we got to test Rogers’s theories.
Black Creek Pioneer Village is set in the 1860s, and so our lesson focused on the state of the beer industry at that time. Many of the big-name Canadian brews lining liquor store shelves today got their start in the 19th century, including Labatt’s, Alexander Keith’s, and Sleeman’s.
These early brewers were part of the upper echelons of Canadian society, dabbling in politics, banking, and business, and they helped to build much of the country’s infrastructure at that time, including schools, churches, and banks. As my tasting companion remarked with awe, “Canada was built on beer.”
Black Creek Pioneer Village opened its own traditional brewery in June 2009. The beers are made as they would have been in the mid-nineteenth century. They are not carbonated, and are served at room temperature directly from the oak barrels in which they are aged. We sampled three of Black Creek’s beers: a brown ale, a porter ale, and an India Pale Ale.
Though initially I was repulsed by the warm, flat beer, my tastebuds gradually became accustomed to the style, and I grew to appreciate the simplicity of the traditional brews and the purity of their taste. The porter ale, a dark beer with notes of coffee and chocolate, was my favourite of Black Creek’s offerings.
After finishing our samples, we were finally introduced to the evening’s cheese selection. Rogers had come with five pairings: four Ontario cheeses matched with Ontario craft beers, and one Quebec cheese and beer pairing.
Julia explained there are different ways of creating a pairing. You can pair by the ‘weight’ of the two (such as a heavy-tasting beer with a strong cheese), by common flavours and aromas, or by regional and historical commonalities.
The first pairing was a Stracchino from Quality Cheese matched with Mill Street Brewery’s Lemon Tea Ale. The two worked nicely together, as the bread flavours present in the wheat beer paired well with the yeasty, tangy Italian-style cheese.
Our second selection included Niagara Gold, a Guernsey cow milk tome made by Upper Canada Cheese Company, and Black Oak Saison Ale. As the name would suggest, Saison is a seasonal beer, brewed at the close of the traditional brewing season, in March. It’s a refreshing beer with flavours of citrus and spice. The Niagara Gold, a savoury, buttery cheese, paired well with it, muting some of the stronger spice notes in the beer.
We then reached the Quebec pairing of Chevre Noir, a goat’s milk cheddar, with Rose d’Hibiscus, a flavoured wheat beer crafted by the Dieu du Ciel microbrewery. The attractive rose-coloured beer is sweet on the nose but has an acidic taste which comes from the hibiscus flowers added during the brewing process. The pairing was suggested by the brewer himself, and the man clearly knows his cheese as well as his beer. The tangy Chevre Noir was powerful enough to stand up to the strong-flavoured brew.
My tasting companion’s favourite pairing was the fourth, Jensen Cheese’s 3-year cheddar with Railway City Brewery’s Dead Elephant India Pale Ale. It was a bold pairing; the 6.8 % ale had strong flavours of grapefruit and hops that were complemented by the zesty, creamy cheddar. My tasting companion had nothing but praise for the pair, and he wondered aloud where he could buy each.
The final match was my favourite: Ewenity Dairy’s Brebette sheep’s milk cheese and Black Creek’s own porter ale. The fresh-tasting, bloomy rind cheese had a velvety texture. Rogers served it with a homemade fig and dark chocolate jam. The porter paired perfectly with the cheese and the sweet spread. Beer often pairs better with desserts and sweets than wine, further proof of the beverage’s versatility.
As the evening wound down, the last of the cheese was eaten while Julia chatted with her students. Meanwhile, my tasting companion, never one to be shy, requested a second glass of the Railway City IPA, and as he savoured his brew, he vowed to create his own pairings at home.
—Phoebe Powell
Phoebe Powell, a roving reporter for CheeseLover.ca, last wrote about a Canadian grilled-cheese throw-down.
Spending an evening tasting and discussing Ontario artisan cheeses under the guidance of a passionate professional is a wonderfully indulgent experience. Adding expertly paired VQA Ontario wines to the mix only serves to increase the decadence of the experience.
Culinarium hosted an evening of wine and cheese tasting last week that adhered to the Toronto gourmet food shop’s mantra “All Ontario, all the time.” Kathleen Mackintosh, founder of Culinarium, chose the evening’s cheeses, and she guided the eight eager students in attendance through the process of cheese tasting.
The Wine Rack provided the VQA wines, and Sherinne Quartermaine, the store’s manager, selected a variety of Ontario wines to pair with Kathleen’s four cheese choices. Both Kathleen and Sherinne gave their students general guidelines for tasting cheese and wine, but ultimately, they agreed tasting is a personal experience. They encouraged everyone to approach tasting in whatever way worked for them.
We started each pairing by tasting the cheese on its own, then the wine on its own. We discussed the flavours and characteristics of each, and then we tasted the cheese and wine together. First, we had a bite of the cheese followed by a sip of the wine, and we noted the ways in which the flavours changed, became more apparent, or were lost with the pairing. We then reversed the steps, tasting the wine first and then the cheese.
The first cheese we sampled was a sheep’s milk cheese produced by Fifth Town Artisan Cheese in Prince Edward County near Picton, Ontario. The cheese, Lemon Fetish, was a firm, dry, feta-style cheese with citrus flavours.
Lemon Fetish was paired with Strut Sauvignon Blanc. When the cheese was sampled first, followed by the wine, the sauvignon blanc mellowed out the strong citrus flavours in the cheese, while the saltiness of Lemon Fetish made the Strut wine taste sweeter.
The tasting group as a whole agreed that when the approach was reversed, and the wine was followed by the cheese, the subtleties of the wine were lost to the strong flavours of the cheese. This was the case for most of the combinations sampled that evening, with the exception of the second pairing, which featured a bold Inniskillin Two Vineyards Merlot. The merlot was paired with a sharp 5-year cheddar produced by Maple Dale Cheese. The two paired nicely as neither overpowered the other.
During the evening’s tasting, the passion of both Kathleen and Sherinne for the craft of Ontario’s cheese and wine producers became apparent. Kathleen explained the human quality of artisan cheesemaking, describing it as a “hand-touched” and “human-tended” craft that required patience and care on the part of the cheesemaker.
Kathleen insisted this handcraft deserved the respect of the taster.
She argued that a taster should never ignore the rind of a cheese. As the only part of the cheese the maker can really affect, Kathleen believes we should taste the rind of every cheese we buy, out of respect for the cheesemaker.
We all gamely tried the rind of the Comfort Cream Camembert made by Upper Canada Cheese in the Niagara Peninsula. The bloomy rind added another dimension to the nutty flavours of this cheese. It was paired with a Jackson Triggs Reserve Cuvee Close, and they worked well together. The cheese made the wine taste creamier and sweeter.
Sherinne told the group of tasters the price of a wine is often a reflection of the care a grape receives. For that reason, she explained, ice wines are often pricier than other varieties. She described the labour of ice-wine making, in which pickers hand pick the frozen grapes in the middle of the night, in temperatures below minus 8 degrees Celsius.
In the case of Inniskillin Vidal Ice Wine, the hard work certainly paid off. The 2006 vintage we sampled is a multiple gold medal winner, and an older vintage of Inniskillin’s Vidal ice wine was served to President Barack Obama at his Nobel Peace Prize Dinner.
The ice wine was paired with Glengarry Fine Cheese’s Celtic Blue. The two paired nicely. While on its own, the ice wine was a bit syrupy and sweet for my liking (with a sugar code of 24), when paired with the sharp, tangy blue, I appreciated the sweetness of the ice wine.
When our four pairings had all gone down, and our taste buds were thoroughly satisfied, the night began to wind down. My tasting companion and I lingered in the store a bit longer, admiring the cheese selection. We finally took advantage of the 10 per cent discount offered to the guests, and picked up Fifth Town’s Lemon Fetish.
Perhaps we will be inspired to experiment with some wine pairings of our own.
—Phoebe Powell
A journalism graduate and budding turophile, Phoebe Powell last wrote for CheeseLover.ca about Monforte Dairy morphing into an art gallery.
There’s nothing quite like spending an evening nibbling on cheese and sipping wine with good friends. We invited two couples to join us for a five-course tasting menu last night. Here’s how it went down:
First course/Introductions
Riopelle de l’Isle:
One of the great cheeses of Canada, it’s made from raw cow’s milk on a small island— Île-aux-Grues—in the middle of the St. Lawrence River about 40 miles down-river from Quebec City. Riopelle de l’Île is named after Quebec’s most famous painter, Jean-Paul Riopelle, who lived on the island for two decades until his death in 2002.
He lent his name to the cheese, and provided the artwork that adorns the packaging, on the condition that one dollar for each wheel sold by Fromageries Île-aux-Grues would be donated to the island youth foundation.
A soft triple-cream cheese with a bloomy rind, Riopelle melts in your mouth and has a wonderful taste of hazelnut, mushroom, a hint of butter and a pinch of salt.
Bonnie & Floyd and me:
I’m so proud of “my” cheese because the two times I’ve shared it, guests have said it was their favorite. This is the Bonnie & Floyd that I was given in November after spending a day learning how cheese is made at Fifth Town Artisan Cheese in Prince Edward County.
Despite my difficulties in finding a spot in our apartment building to age the cheese at the right temperature and the right humidity, my Bonnie & Floyd turned out to be a real treat. Just like the cheese aged at Fifth Town, mine has a smooth paste with complex yet mild mineral flavours. Barely salty near the rind, and somewhat nutty, it provides almost sweet lactic flavours near the centre.
When I first cut into the wheel, I couldn’t believe how fresh and milky it tasted, a testament to how well the ewes who gave the milk are treated, and the speed with which the milk moves from farm to cheesemaker.
Second course/Warming up
Baked Woolrich Chevrai:
My sister gave us a lovely baking dish for Christmas together with a small log of Woolrich Dairy goat cheese and assorted herbs. After 20 minutes in the oven at 350F, it was a striking addition to the assortment of flavours on our menu.
It was nearing its best-before date, so was well aged, and most of our guests laced it with honey. With a Parisian-style baguette, it was a light and tangy treat.
Third course/Cheddar chowdown
Kraft Cracker Barrel vs 5-year Wilton vs 6-year Black River:
We had purchased the Kraft “aged cheddar” as it was on sale at a ridiculously low price at Wal-Mart but had not yet found a way to eat it; thus, my bright idea of blind-tasting the factory-made cheddar against two artisan cheddars.
It was no contest. Even sitting on the board, it was obvious which was the Kraft, but we proceeded with the blind-tasting anyway as it provided an entertaining twist to the proceedings.
The five-year Wilton is a very nice cheddar. Perhaps because it has rested in our refrigerator for four months, we could spot the occasional crystal developing.
For our tastebuds, the six-year Black River was the clear winner, so tangy and complex, so crumbly that after our guests departed, I made a snack of cleaning up the bamboo board.
Fourth course/From the grill
Guernsey Girl:
Guernsey Girl is a delightful new cheese that is unique to Canada and deserves its own blog entry (which will come after we have another chance to try frying the cheese. Yes, this cheese is fried or grilled before it is served).
It’s an outstanding creation of Upper Canada Cheese using the rich milk provided by a herd of Guernsey cows on the Comfort family farm near Jordan, a Niagara Peninsula village.
Fifth course/Getting serious
Époisses Berthaut:
When we think of a rich and powerful cheese at our house, we think Époisses Berthaut from Burgundy in France. It’s a washed-rind unpasteurized cow’s milk cheese with a natural red tint and its own rich and penetrating aroma.
It’s described as an iconic cheese in tasting notes published by Provincial Fine Foods: “Époisses is powerfully scented, soft-to-runny, and can sometimes deter people with its frank, leathery, animal aromas. Once past the lips, Époisses is spicy, earthy, salty and rich, but not nearly as potent as one might expect.”
Cabrales:
When Cabrales, the great blue of Spain, is well-aged, it is fully potent—on the verge of overpowering the faint of heart. Our Cabrales was like that, even with a chutney or honey or fig jam, so ripe and so intense.
I had told Geoff, a longtime cheesemonger at Chris’s Cheesemongers in St. Lawrence Market, that we wanted a strongh finish to our evening—and did he deliver! Geoff carved our wedge from a wheel that was obviously fully ripe. Heck, half the piece was dark blue!
Our guests, who were as satiated was we were by evening’s end, barely tasted the Cabrales. Meaning Significant Other and I, over the coming week, must find ways to savour the strongest cheese we’ve ever tasted—or it will simply become too powerful, even for strong cheese lovers like us.
Chris’s Cheesemongers, $7.34 per 100 grams.
Dessert
There was a loud groan from our full guests when we presented one additional variation on the evening’s cheese theme—cannoli—but six of the little suckers were devoured within minutes.
Wines
For starters, Henry of Pelham Cuvee Catharine Rose Brut and an excellent Pillitteri Gewurtzraminer Reisling. Then, Henry of Pelham Pinot Noir and a delightful Conundrum California White Wine (blend). Concluding with Casa dos Vinhos Madeira and a knockout Cockfighter’s Ghost Shiraz that was a match for our Cabrales.
With plenty of San Benedetto carbonated mineral water to stave off dehydration.
Sides
Red pepper jelly, Latvian chutney, Kalamata olives, Ontario honey and fig jam from France. Green grapes and strawberries. Honey dates, dried apricots and walnuts. Kashi crackers, multi-grain flatbreads and plain crackers. Parisian-style baguette and a multi-grain baguette.
We also offered tomato slices drizzled with Spanish olive oil and Modena balsamic vinegar and topped with a fresh basil leaf which worked exceptionally well to counter the buttery richness of Guernsey Girl.
Unexpected guests
One couple brought us two additions to our menu:
Le 1608
Le 1608 is a relatively new creation of Laiterie Charlevoix. A semi-firm, washed rind cheese, Le 1608 uses milk from Canadienne cows whose ancestors were brought to Canada from France starting in 1608. Most of these hardy animals are unique to the Charlevoix region of Quebec.
As Sue Riedl wrote in The Globe and Mail about a year ago, “Le 1608 develops a pale orange exterior that is washed with brine while ripening. Developing a full, barny aroma, the paste tastes nutty at the rind and has a complex, fruity flavour that emerges from its melt-in-the mouth texture. The pleasant tang of the long finish clinches this cheese’s spot as a new Canadian favourite.”
We couldn’t agree more.
Saint Agur
What a mouth-watering, medium-strong, creamy blue cheese made from pasteurized cow’s milk in Auvergne, France!
Saint Agur was the perfect counter-point to our Cabrales. Kind of like a softer and finer Roquefort and, due to its double-cream nature, easy to spread on a plain cracker. (The next day, it tasted even better, leaving an almond-like impression.)
Footnotes
In retrospect, 11 cheeses over five courses were too much of a good thing. Four courses of maybe eight or nine cheeses would have been just fine.
The experts usually say allow for 400 grams of cheese per person when serving cheese as a meal. We provided 485 grams per person. When all was said and done, close to 400 grams were consumed on average per person.
—Georgs Kolesnikovs
Georgs Kolesnikovs is Cheese-Head-in-Chief at CheeseLover.ca.